The much-awaited Manimahesh Yatra, dedicated to Lord Shiva, in Himachal Pradesh’s Chamba district began on Krishna Janmashtami (August 16) but had to be suspended midway on August 25 in the face of devastation wreaked by a series of cloudburst-triggered flash floods and incessant heavy rain, without performing the customary religious rituals.
Every year, according to the state government, the pilgrimage officially starts on Janmashtami and ends on Radhashtami, but devotees and seasoned trekkers embark on the journey to the Manimahesh Lake, also called Dal Lake, at the foot of the Manimahesh Kailash Peak at an elevation of 4,080 metres (13,390 ft) from May-June, carrying with them “chharis” — decorated maces, mostly shaped like tridents, symbolising Lord Shiva’s authority and presence.
According to an official estimate, 60,000 to 70,000 pilgrims visit Manimahesh Lake during the official yatra in 15 days every year, but more than 1 lakh people visit the lake annually.
For the first time in several decades, however, the Yatra was suspended midway. “In 2020, the Yatra was called off midway due to the Covid-19 pandemic, but devotees carrying charris managed to reach the Manimahesh Lake to perform rituals. This year, too, pilgrims were buoyant enough to move ahead, but disaster struck and forced them to change their minds.”
The extreme weather conditions triggered landslides, shooting stones, and damaged roads and bridges, disrupting road connectivity, just a week before the scheduled conclusion of the yatra on August 31 (on Radhastami), according to the state government.
Yatra in legends
Rooted in Hindu legend, Lord Shiva is believed to have created the Manimahesh Lake after marrying Goddess Parvati. Manimahesh means the “Jewel of Shiva’s Crown”.
As legends go, the Yatra traces its origin to the centuries-old faith of the local ‘Gaddi’ (shepherd) tribe, who believe one of their ancestors once had the divine vision of Lord Shiva at the Manimahesh Lake. Every year, thousands of Gaddis and devotees, primarily from Jammu & Kashmir’s Doda, Kishtwar, Bhadarwah, Rajouri and Jammu, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab and Haryana throng Chamba, carrying chharis to undertake the pilgrimage. The charris tradition is largely associated with the devotees coming from different parts of J&K and Himachal Pradesh. Devotees from Punjab, Haryana and other states undertake the pilgrimage without charris.
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The yatra begins from the Lakshmi Narayan temple in Chamba (Express Photo)
Traditionally, pilgrims first assemble at Chaugan, a large open ground in the heart of Chamba town.
Devotees take three tough mountainous routes to the Manimahesh Lake — from Hadsar (14-15 km), from Kugti (38-40 km) and from Holi village (22km). However, most of the devotees usually take the Hadsar route, which takes them 2-3 days to reach the lake. The Kugti route is largely followed by amateur trekkers interested in the scenic beauty of the trek. The Kugti route is longer because it involves a ‘parikrama’ (circumambulation) of the Manimahesh Kailash Peak and takes 5-6 days.
However, only locals take the Holi village route due to its difficult topography.
The yatra begins from the Lakshmi Narayan temple in Chamba. After travelling 59 km, pilgrims pay obeisance at Bharmani Mata temple, and then return to Bharmour to seek blessings at the famous Chaurasi temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Manimahesh Yatra starts officially from this temple.
Significance of chharis
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Two sects — Dasnami Akhara, associated with Adi Shankaracharya, and Chatpat Nath, linked to Chamba’s Lakshmi Narayan temple — hold the exclusive right to carry the first chharis to the Manimahesh Lake. After their chharis are established at the lake, selected devotees associated with these two sects perform rituals of crossing the lake, called “Lake Todna” (breaking the lake).
Challenges, adversities
Public transport connectivity to Bharmour, Hadsar and Kugti (starting points of the pilgrimage) is limited. Devotees often depend on shared taxis, private vehicles or two-wheelers to reach Hadsar or Kugti.
Located at an altitude of 4,080 metres, the Manimahesh Yatra falls under the category of high-risk pilgrimages due to unpredictable weather conditions, steep gradients, narrow and unpaved trails, cold temperatures, and altitude sickness.
The Chamba district administration advises people suffering from cardiac problems, breathing issues, and other age-related ailments to avoid the pilgrimage. However, many still take the risk.
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A senior district administration official said, “Manimahesh Yatra is one of the unregulated religious yatras in the state. According to previous years’ data, the fatality rate among pilgrims and trekkers during the Manimahesh Yatra is about 9 to 12 annually. In 2024, 12 pilgrims had died.”
Current situation
Incessant rains, landslides and damaged roads and bridges forced the state government to suspend the Yatra on August 24. Nearly 10,000 devotees, including those gathered in Chamba and those who had started trekking and were stranded mid-way, were rescued and transported to safer locations.
An officer of the District Disaster Management Authority (DDMA) in Chamba said, “All pilgrims from Hadsar to the Manimahesh Lake were brought back to Bharmour. Around 400-500 pilgrims, who were unable to walk due to fatigue and health issues, are being taken care of by the local administration at Bharmour. There are no roads, and mobile connectivity is poor, too. Only two to three satellite phones are available to maintain contact between Bharmour and Chamba.”
Chamba Deputy Commissioner Mukesh Repaswal said, “Around 16 pilgrims died during this year’s Yatra since August 16, when it officially began. While five deaths were caused by landslides, falling stones and weather-related accidents, the remaining deaths occurred due to breathlessness, fatigue, high-altitude sickness and extreme exhaustion. Over 12,000 pilgrims from J&K, Punjab, Haryana and other northern states were evacuated. Another 3,000 are being sent back.”
NGT on the Yatra
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The National Green Tribunal (NGT) has taken suo-motu cognisance of reports of alleged violations of environmental rules in the nearby areas of the Manimahesh Lake arising out of the lack of sanitation, lack of public utility services, etc.
Recently, the state government submitted to the NGT that it would not allow langars (community kitchen services) near the Manimahesh Lake.
(The reporter visited Manimahesh Lake via Hadsar in June 2015)
